Today I have visited the beautiful and mysterious Recoleta, Buenos Aire's famous necropolis. Imagine if you will the great population density of Buenos Aires herself, the crowded, narrow streets with buildings that quickly run into each other and grow upward instead. Now change that so its a population density of dead people and that they require even less personal space than a porteƱo and you can begin to imagine what I mean when I say this place is wall to wall dead people. Two and three-story tombs and mausoleums made of luxurious stone throw up ornate crosses and angels into the sky, wedged together like necrotic tv antennae. You'd think at some point somebody would have realized that their tomb would stand out more if it were not an imposing 16-foot tall black marble monstrosity, but no, brute ostentation carries the day. The press of religious imagery backdropped by Buenos Aire's frequently cloudy sky gives a horror movie-set feel to the place. This feeling is intens...